We flew up the mountain I am back 4 days early, I felt Strong and I carried my pack all the way to camp two had a porter to 3 as we were on a tight schedule but mentally I was a basket case. We didn't have rest days it did my Head in sitting around and the guys said as long as I was strong and had no altitude probs we could crack on. I had no head aches or any AMS at all which was great.
As far as I see it it was a triumph, I had pretty much reconciled myself to not summiting from base camp and definitively decided at camp 2 the weather was so awful up there it would have been insane to try. I told Carlos of my decision and he totally agreed with the tragic rider that had we gone for it we would have had to step over a dead climber who died on Friday at the mouth of the canaletta. We understand no one bar two serious climbing pairs have summit ed in the last week.
Saturday was a beautiful morning, we were going o descend the way we had come up but Larry and Carlos had other ideas we knew a mega storm was on its way (IT came and it destroyed we were well below by then) we scooted up 2,500 feet to high camp 19,600 feet where I got too last year, I started feeling very nervous again but got into stride and we got up there that was brilliant and I wept like a child for about 5 minutes I was so happy SO HAPPY then the boys suggested we climb a bit higher b4 descending so we topped out at 20,000 feet an amazing high in all senses! We then descended 6,000 to the other base camp at Plaza De Mulas thus traversing the mountains which was also cool and made me feel good. I am not going to write too much more Larry and Carlos want to give a guides view (Once I have tipped them and filled them full of champagne...) which will be more honest than mine! Also I can only get a flight tomorrow home or wait till Sunday so am rushing around packing etc. But I am going to post photos and write a more detailed account en route home if you want too look again in a coupla days.
Oh yes I had an 18 mile hike out yesterday and that was it. I again faced demons I never want too see again but I had an amazing seriously challenging fulfilling trip and it has been a total honour to do it for the adorable Louis Dundas Ruth Bruce Alfie and the rest of the Dundii, I am so happy I can't tell you!!!
Sorry for brevity beer and club sandwich arrived yum! Will write in more detail in next two days unless what the guides write means I have to seek refuge in Uruguay
all love and THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT and I JOHN RONALD BERGIUS PROMISE I WILL NEVER (MAYBE) ASK YOU TO SPONSOR ME AGAIN!!!!
all love from a fantastically happy JOHNNY B
Knew you had abandoned the climb when I spoke to Ed at Earnstrey at the w/end. It is a HUGE comfort to know you are heading home. Congratulations on getting up as far as you did and back down safely. Your achievement is enormous. A thousand bravos dear Cuz. Your guides' report says it all but your's is a read in itself ! Big hugs and lotsaXXXX A & A
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely fantastic achievement Johnny, we'll never know or feel what it was really like. Your description of the cold and wind is very vivid and it was good to read the guides clear admiration of you. Speak again soon, Eric.
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