Guides view

Johnny will continue to give himself less credit then he properly deserves. He was way stronger then he gave himself credit for, and took the climb on with a true mountaineers outlook. That the climb and the experience were equal, if not more important than summit success.

One example of Johnny's courage beyond what he will admit here came about a week into our journey. After a strenuous climb to camp 1, 16,000 ft, Johnny witnessed tents being destroyed by the wind, and a groups of people trying to wrangle them from the wind. After this adrenalin induced episode we traveled back down to base camp. Part way down we started to look for the bright orange domiciles we called home. for some reason we couldn't make them out. When we arrived at base camp we were approached by some Americans that we be friended along the way and we were informed that a hurricane blast ripped through camp and through our tents aside in it's wake. Along with our personal tents went the service tents. As I witnessed the carnage that was left by the mighty blast I was sure that Johnny would be ready to go down. But to my surprise when I told Johnny that our tents were not sound to sleep in at the moment, and we need to sleep in the last tent standing, which was at a 45 degree angle, he offered to sleep under the table. The next as a base camp refugee, johnny helped to rebuild the service tent with the rest of the volunteers.

Johnny said that he did this trip on his own because he didn't want to deal with other people. But some how everyone knew Johnny B on the mountain, and I mean everyone. When porters would pass us up and down the mountain, they would shout hi to Johnny, even though the knew little English. He also had the scoop on all the other climbing party's around us.

Even though Johnny woke every morning with a new excuse to go down, which was promptly ignored. Once on the trail up the mountain he would exclaim that he felt "fucking brilliant!", and would carry on another day.

This trip with johnny was probably the most rewarding expedition I have done for a couple of reasons. The first is because of how ex static he was just to reach high camp. upon arriving, after succumbing to tears for a moment, he said he "felt like a bunch of balloons!". He was here for something bigger than Aconcagua. He had a larger goal, a more noble one, and we thank him for letting us be part of it. I wish I would have more clients like Johnny B. then our expeditions would be more than just getting people to the top.

This is just same flash backs of an extraordinary and fun expedition that face us with hard weather and Johnny's great spirit, and enthusiasm that will remain with us for life.

Larry Holmgren and Carlos Liendo.

Aconcagua Guides.

I'm down but on a high!!!!!

Greetings!! I have had one of the greatest adventures of my indulged life!! God it was hard weather foul sunny but THE WIND......! It didn't stop hardly any sleep at night tent being bashed around, Larry and Carlos my sainted guides, fixed the tent after mine was smashed down theirs was ripped and poles broken but they fixed it and off we went! Every morning was a struggle I was very lonely and felt like first day at prep school. The boys very subtly urged me on but I have to be honest and say I VERY NEARLY packed it up at base camp I was very unhappy indeed. It was so cold at night I slept in three pairs of sox two long johns one trouser inner gloves outer gloves two thermal vest two fleeces and a woolly hat. There was so much noise that I listened to my I pod all night I am sick of Will Young (It was that bad!!)

We flew up the mountain I am back 4 days early, I felt Strong and I carried my pack all the way to camp two had a porter to 3 as we were on a tight schedule but mentally I was a basket case. We didn't have rest days it did my Head in sitting around and the guys said as long as I was strong and had no altitude probs we could crack on. I had no head aches or any AMS at all which was great.

As far as I see it it was a triumph, I had pretty much reconciled myself to not summiting from base camp and definitively decided at camp 2 the weather was so awful up there it would have been insane to try. I told Carlos of my decision and he totally agreed with the tragic rider that had we gone for it we would have had to step over a dead climber who died on Friday at the mouth of the canaletta. We understand no one bar two serious climbing pairs have summit ed in the last week.

Saturday was a beautiful morning, we were going o descend the way we had come up but Larry and Carlos had other ideas we knew a mega storm was on its way (IT came and it destroyed we were well below by then) we scooted up 2,500 feet to high camp 19,600 feet where I got too last year, I started feeling very nervous again but got into stride and we got up there that was brilliant and I wept like a child for about 5 minutes I was so happy SO HAPPY then the boys suggested we climb a bit higher b4 descending so we topped out at 20,000 feet an amazing high in all senses! We then descended 6,000 to the other base camp at Plaza De Mulas thus traversing the mountains which was also cool and made me feel good. I am not going to write too much more Larry and Carlos want to give a guides view (Once I have tipped them and filled them full of champagne...) which will be more honest than mine! Also I can only get a flight tomorrow home or wait till Sunday so am rushing around packing etc. But I am going to post photos and write a more detailed account en route home if you want too look again in a coupla days.

Oh yes I had an 18 mile hike out yesterday and that was it. I again faced demons I never want too see again but I had an amazing seriously challenging fulfilling trip and it has been a total honour to do it for the adorable Louis Dundas Ruth Bruce Alfie and the rest of the Dundii, I am so happy I can't tell you!!!

Sorry for brevity beer and club sandwich arrived yum! Will write in more detail in next two days unless what the guides write means I have to seek refuge in Uruguay

all love and THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT and I JOHN RONALD BERGIUS PROMISE I WILL NEVER (MAYBE) ASK YOU TO SPONSOR ME AGAIN!!!!

all love from a fantastically happy JOHNNY B

great to talk!

great to talk to you mon nickers and kevin really great miss you all and longing to see yu all and have a bath and poo in a loo!!! this is probably the last note until I get down so positive vibes and prayers for wind to drop!!
LOVE U!!!!!! XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Flat tent...!

Hi this is post 2 worried oif I write a long one and lose connexion I have to start again
Nightmare when we got downlast night from Camp 1 my tent had been flattened by a freak gust of wind ripped broken bust... the guides tent has been flattened by a huge catering thing like a polytunnel which was ripped up into the air and landed on their tent which will be our tent above base camp it hasn´t ripped but their poles are all bent and bust so they are trying to fix them i think they can. whe we got to camp 1 yday it was blowing a gale and we helped another group put up their tents Larry my guide laept on one of them as it blew away!! and saved it but they lost one God it was windy. Any way my poor tent is in a sad heap we slept i akitchen tent last nighyt I was lucky that some amerecans who we came up with rescued it otherwise all my stuff would have blown away.
Any way sunny day warmsih but guess what windy and all good otherwise so love to all and don,t worry I am really feeling well and chllenged but in a good way!!
all love J XX

camp 1

hi guys made it to camp 1 16k feet wild windy snowy and freezing BUT I am feeling so strong! I made it up with my pack loaded no porter which was to my mind a triumph it was 8 hours up and down we stashed some supplies up there and then came back down its all acliamtisation. So at base camp now and haed up tomorrow so probably will be out of contact til I either do it or not! I am feeling really good physically, its a bit of a mind F.... being on my own gudes are great but one can slightly dwell on where I am!! But part from that it is so sodding windy it just doesn,t stop really cold and windy all the time. I am supremely confident physically but the weather is wild and windy and cold so that truly is my enemy and I am goinmg to do exactly what I think is right I am not obssesed with the summit if the cold and wind carry on I will have no worries in coming down it is a huge challenge to have got this far I stink no shower for a week and pooing in a hole!! Its not home!
all love J XXXX

basecamp

have arrived at basecamp great hike in saw condors and foxes, it seemed bit easier than last time, its been VERY windy for 2 weeks!! was v windy all way up hikes are long think of being in thre gym for 8 hours a day and that sort of does it! storm forecast for tomorrow again it was v stormy last night but it is fine when we are at basecamp, hope the wind will drop soon! Miss everyone but fel happy and strong. there is much more snow up here than b4 so we will be in crampons from here which apparntly makes things easier. Its very cold indeed as well but sunny.
First big test to camp 1 tomorrow so will try and give a report on that on Monday after that i will be out of contact but love from aconcagua send me messages!!! any way i am happy and feel good gudes are great. J XXXXXX

THE OFF

In haste just to say we are off!!! nerves have gone and excitment has taken over. Yippeeeeeeee!

Penitentes

Just leaving for Penitentes where we will spend tonight. I was quite keen to avoid it its a dump, and go straight to the starting point but the night there is a really important start to acclimatisation to the altitude as its about 7,000 feet up so my body will start getting used to the altitude. Rushing it could screw everything up the slower you acclimatise the more chance you have of not getting altitude sickness headaches etc. So that is that!

All my stuff including my big rucksack is packed into one big bag which Mules will carry to base camp, once we are there no doubt more stuff will be dumped as I have to carry everything from Base Camp myself in the big pack. Up to base camp I only have to carry my day pack with weather gear and water and bit of grub in it so its not very heavy.

Really enjoyed my last bath and last sleep in a nice bed and sheets for 18 days .... just chilled out last night packed repacked and packed again!!!!

Any way think of us early tomorrow starting out on the big adventure say a little prayer and I'm only 1500 short of 60,000 for the Louis Dundas Centre Of palliative care so it would be great if it was 60 plus when I get down!!!!!!!!!!

Also if you leave comments on the blog I will see them at base camp I hope!!!

Love J XXX

Colin

Have to mention Colin my trainer who has been a total legend for the last four months and whose training last thursday culminated in my seriously wanting to hit him or at the least give up and go home he pushed me so much. (I didn't do either) If you read this thanks mate for everything I think a lot of my confidence has come from your training and your really positive approach and encouragement.

Ground Hog Day!

Well after 30 hours I am here! My vendetta with BA added considerably to my journey time but principles are principles! And Air Canada are brilliant, Seem less through Toronto and Santiago really easy. Slept almost the whole way , the last leg to Mendoza was hideously turbulent and Aconcagua was bathed in Stygian cloud.

It is very weird being back here, It really feels like I left yesterday its a very weird ground hog day feeling. I think I am even in the same room as last time eeek! I'm sitting surrounded by all my kit no doubt the guides will whittle it down quite a lot there does seem to be quite a lot of stuff.

I met Carlos and Larry my guides last night, they seem pretty cool Carlos is from Santiago and Larry is an Alaskan and my confidence has soared, I am feeling alarmingly positive and very excited now I am here. I'm also apprehensive certainly, but the gloom's of the last few weeks have vanished totally.

I'm also relieved I decided to do the private climb, the group I would have been with left yesterday, there are 13 of them my idea of hell.. both my guides from last year Wesley and Maria Jose are guiding them so we should hook up at Base Camp which is really great and something to look forward too.

Went out to dinner last night and ate most of a cow well left most of it I have never seen a sodding steak so big! Also I am in the heart of the Argentinian wine growing region, AHHH! Bliss, even my shampoo in my hotel room is White Wine Shampoo, Honestly! No Nickers.... I haven't tasted it!

Really interesting to hear from Rodrigo and Carlos that the extreme conditions on my last trip are now in the annals of the history of Aconcagua, it was a famous storm, that in itself is cause for a minor confidence boost I had assumed it was always like that!

Any way the guys are here to check my stuff see yah XXXX

Why I am doing this again?

On the 18th December 2006, having endured two weeks on the mountain in particularly appalling weather culminating in two days and nights confined to our flimsy tents at 19,800 feet in winds up to 100 mile an hour and temperatures falling to -50 windchill, I descended Aconcagua, at 22.841 feet (6962 metres) the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas, in the teeth of this storm. I had ascended to the highest camp and to within one final days slog to the summit.

I arrived back in Mendoza mentally and physically exhausted and vowed I would never set foot on any mountain ever again..........

On April 21st 2008 Louis Dundas lost his tenacious and agonising 18 month battle against a brain tumour. Although I hardly knew him, this little boy, the son of my close friends Ruth and Bruce Dundas demonstrated a fortitude and courage through this appalling illness which demonstrated a strength of character, love of life and set an example of courage in the face of serious adversity which I have found totally inspirational.

Louis in his five short years achieved what we all spend a life time aspiring too; He has left a legacy which will have a profoundly positive impact on the lives of his fellow human beings.

On October 8th 2009 Ruth and Bruce announced ambitious plans in Louis memory to establish a centre for palliative care for children with life threatening illness at Great Ormond Street Hospital.

Therefore in an effort to raise funds for this wonderful project I am going to attempt, one more time to climb Aconcagua.

I would love you to support me in my return to this formidable mountain between November 27th and December 23rd 2009 and thus help Ruth and Bruce to help other families who have to endure the despair of terminal illness in a child.

You can access my just giving site at

http://www.justgiving.com/Johnny-bergius0/

or pledge your support by e mailing me on

johnny@bergius.com.

I will be updating the blog on my progress both during training, and when I start the expedition.